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    #141 SR14WA

    SR14WA

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    Posted 09 June 2016 - 09:41 AM

    Cheaper option is use Harry's Laptimer with an external GPS antenna so that it tracks you better, and therefore will be accurate. Also tracks more stuff so is actually a little bit useful and if you have a mount for your phone can record and overlay it for more usefulness again. 

     

    https://nasaspeed.ne...rrys-lap-timer/



    #142 volt_bite

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    Posted 09 June 2016 - 10:24 AM

    Yeah, that's what I was talking about. Harry's laptimer with an external GPS receiver like the qstarz or the XGPS160. About $100 and $20-30 for harry's.


    Edited by volt_bite, 09 June 2016 - 10:24 AM.

    Name: Marshall Location: NoR  Project: KRPS13 180sx Daily: Nissan S15 Spec R


    #143 Byah!

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    Posted 09 June 2016 - 10:25 AM

    Yeah they were saying that. 

     

    you still thinking about gettin the GPS system as well? think my mate was also interested. 

     

    Car seemed ok, bumper was already in bad condition anyway hahaha, was not carrying cable ties in the car, worst silvia owner. But he did manage to pull a 1.05 with old tyres and pretty average suspension. Think he has about 260hp from a nistune in that car. 

     

    Yep Jay told me those times as well. If you look at Race Chrono and the line it draws its so far off the track. Not very accurate. 


    Edited by Byah!, 09 June 2016 - 10:26 AM.

    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

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    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
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    #144 jeffaz

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    Posted 15 June 2016 - 04:59 PM

    1.06 is a good time man. as of late my cars been scraping the bottom of 1.03, also using harrys lap timer. chasing that 1.02. good to see this car getting bulk track action. 


    Stephen 180sx NoR

    #145 volt_bite

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    Posted 16 June 2016 - 11:24 AM

    I want to get the GPS system, but first I need to fix the car and actually get more than 3 laps haha


    Name: Marshall Location: NoR  Project: KRPS13 180sx Daily: Nissan S15 Spec R


    #146 Byah!

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    Posted 16 June 2016 - 11:32 AM

    Thanks Steve, Yeah hoping to get it into the 1.05's as I know a few areas where I could improve....really just need to drive smoother. 

     

     

    Let me know when u order Marshall!


    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

    Bike: DR650 bush pig  
    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
    "He's got the strength and flexibility of Gumby and Hercules combined!" "Gumbercules?! I love that guy!!"
    Pandering below;
    http://www.silviawa....showtopic=72615


    #147 Byah!

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    Posted 11 July 2016 - 10:41 AM

    Have had some trouble with steering wheel vibrations lately. Think I had a few bad balances but the last place I went to was adamant that wheels were perfectly round and balanced up (I watched them balance the wheels myself). 

     

    So here is the problem; Wheel shakes at 90km/h at times but then is ok at others. Will also shake at 110km/h at times off and on. Car also pulls hard to the left at times but after hitting a small bump will correct itself. 

     

    Had a quick look over the car and there is definitely something going on with one of the coilovers (drivers side front). With the Nut at the top of the coilover done up there is a 5mm gap between the damper adjuster and nut (which is not on the passenger side). Apart from that the coilovers seem to be tight. 

     

    Lower control arms also look good with no play. 

     

    Caster arms have polyurethane bushes in them and again have no play. 

     

    Steering rack mounts look old as well but again there is no play when I try to shake it. 

     

    Steering column has the factory rubber bushing and does actually move around a lot...so was thinking that could be a possible cause but not really convinced.

     

    The ball joints of the outer tie rods have flogged out dust covers and therefore contain a lot of sand, however there is no play. I have yet to disconnect the tie rods to see if the inner joints are flogged as well. 

     

    Also did a google search and found that a common cause of steering wheel vibration in s13's was a worn out tension spring in the steering rack.

     

    Plan is to attempt to sort the problem out by looking at issues in this order:

    1. Replace spring (as its a cheap $7 part) 
    2. Replace steering column bushing with a solid bushing (again cheaper part at <$40)
    3. Take car to suspension shop to get the drivers side coilover looked at
    4. Have a second look at the tie rods and disconnect them from the knuckles. See if I can clean up the outer ball joints and get away with just replacing the dust covers. 
    5. Replace steering rack mounts with polyurethane ones. 

    Is there anything else that I have not considered? 


    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

    Bike: DR650 bush pig  
    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
    "He's got the strength and flexibility of Gumby and Hercules combined!" "Gumbercules?! I love that guy!!"
    Pandering below;
    http://www.silviawa....showtopic=72615


    #148 SR14WA

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    Posted 11 July 2016 - 12:08 PM

    Mine also does it, at 105km/h to 115 km/h then stops. Have replaced steering rack bushes and tie rods and tie rod ends, to no avail. I think its either my wheels (likely contributor) or the lower control arm bushes at this point (also likely). Be interested to see what actually fixes it for you.



    #149 Byah!

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    Posted 06 August 2016 - 02:19 PM

    Swapped over the steering rack bushes. Def needed to be done but unfortunately didnt fix the shake....

     

    20160806_105237_zpspfibfidt_edit_1470459

     

    Still haven't done the steering rack tension spring so that will be the next one to try. 


    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

    Bike: DR650 bush pig  
    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
    "He's got the strength and flexibility of Gumby and Hercules combined!" "Gumbercules?! I love that guy!!"
    Pandering below;
    http://www.silviawa....showtopic=72615


    #150 JimmieJoJo

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    Posted 06 August 2016 - 05:42 PM

    checked your wheel bearings?

     

    jack the car up and try to wiggle the wheel on its hub so grab it at the top and bottom of the wheel and try to get movement and then do the same side to side. The way I see it something has to be loose and is moving. So when its sitting in one location the car drives ok and when it moves out of position it drives badly. If you need someone to have a look with you let me know and I can probably help tomorrow.


    Jim

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    #151 datman55

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    Posted 06 August 2016 - 06:14 PM

    How much castor are you running? I used to get bad castor shake on my last race car.

    #152 Byah!

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    Posted 07 August 2016 - 10:48 AM

    checked your wheel bearings?

     

    jack the car up and try to wiggle the wheel on its hub so grab it at the top and bottom of the wheel and try to get movement and then do the same side to side. The way I see it something has to be loose and is moving. So when its sitting in one location the car drives ok and when it moves out of position it drives badly. If you need someone to have a look with you let me know and I can probably help tomorrow.

     

    Yeah I did have the wheels up and tried to move them as you suggested but didnt get any movement....ill try it again as I was going to lift the car again to put that tension spring in as I have already ordered it. Thanks for the offer of help, unfortunately I have family duties on Sunday....

     

     

    How much castor are you running? I used to get bad castor shake on my last race car.

     

    Not sure what caster but I don't have adjustable Caster arms, tho the bushings have been replaced with polyurethane parts. 

     

    There is definitely something going on with the drivers side coilover tho....its not sitting properly (when compared to the passenger side) and it is sometimes making a "spring" sound when turning over bumps onto driveways etc....ill take some pics soon and upload them. 

     

    Thanks for the help guys! 


    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

    Bike: DR650 bush pig  
    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
    "He's got the strength and flexibility of Gumby and Hercules combined!" "Gumbercules?! I love that guy!!"
    Pandering below;
    http://www.silviawa....showtopic=72615


    #153 Byah!

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    Posted 07 August 2016 - 06:31 PM

    Ok so my brother made me some low profile ramps after watching the guide from Might Car Mods;

     

    20160807_161328_zpsjp9zfyrc.jpg

     

    So I decided to throw in the replacement tension spring.

    Removed the old spring and could see it was definitely more compressed than the new replacement

     

    20160807_154542_zpsixm03u2b.jpg

     

    So after install to the torque specs the steering was wayyyyy to dampened....as it it would not return to center. According to the guide it needs to be released by 90 deg each time so after doing that 4 times it was almost at factory feel. I did take the car up to 110 and the shake did not come up! but something tells me I may just be masking the problem......I did one more adjustment as it still felt too stiff but have not yet taken it out to test it. Will report back when I do, fingers crossed 


    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

    Bike: DR650 bush pig  
    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
    "He's got the strength and flexibility of Gumby and Hercules combined!" "Gumbercules?! I love that guy!!"
    Pandering below;
    http://www.silviawa....showtopic=72615


    #154 Byah!

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    Posted 22 August 2016 - 04:03 PM

    Ok so the final tweak of the tension spring worked well. Shake is all but gone, smooth motoring!!!

     

    That was until the car started to squeal when reversing. Turned out it was the rear brake pads

    20160821_102817_zpsehgj3x2v.jpg

     

    Had good experience with QFM pads so threw a brand new set in the rear and the problem was sorted. 

     

     

    Whilst under the car I could see that the rear subframe bushes were pretty flogged out. I do get a bit of axle tramp so I think that will be the next thing to replace. Think ill shy away from the solid mounts and go for a polyurethane option. 

     

    Finally, I noticed that the wear on the rear tyres was uneven. Passenger side was nearing the tread wear indicators. Tyres were therefore rotated. I have liked the Nitto INVO a lot and think I may just get the same again when it comes time to change them out. 

     

    IMG-20160821-WA0002_zpssgckzsdh.jpeg

     

     

     

    Coilovers started to skip again when doing low speed turns.... so I think the hats need to be greased up. That will be for next weekend! 


    Edited by Byah!, 22 August 2016 - 04:22 PM.

    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

    Bike: DR650 bush pig  
    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
    "He's got the strength and flexibility of Gumby and Hercules combined!" "Gumbercules?! I love that guy!!"
    Pandering below;
    http://www.silviawa....showtopic=72615


    #155 SR14WA

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    Posted 25 August 2016 - 06:46 AM

    Hmmmm... Do you know if this a S13/180 part only? Wondering if it could solve my wheel shake issue too

    #156 Byah!

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    Posted 27 August 2016 - 06:25 AM

    The write up I found said it was actually for the s14!

     

    cant find the original web address but I did save it below ;

     

     

     

    P/N 48237-10V02

     

    found a good write up on how to fix the steering wheel shimmy that from what i have experienced is common in the s14's.

    I have had a problem with an intermittent steering wheel shimmy on the highway. I've had the wheels and tires balanced on a Hunter GSP9700 and performed an alignment. All thefront end suspension is new and bushings are all poly. The 15mm wheel spacers have 66.06mm hubcentric rings and so everything should be good, right? Wrong..

    I then read a TSB that documents the spring in the steering rack that adjusts the pre-load causes a shimmy at highway speeds. If the spring is not pre-loaded enough (worn out), the wheel will shimmy at 55mph + and steering feel loose over potholes etc..

    So I contacted Abby Nissan here and got the spring in and with a little fumbling I got the spring installed and fixed the highway shimmy! It drives like a Caddy now, as long as there's no bumps

    So, here is a list of tools you'll need:

    - Spring P/N 48237-10V02

    - 12mm wrench with 
    breaker bar
    - Locktite 272 Threadlocker "red"
    - Super Lube Penetrant

    - Wire brush

    - Big mouth adjustable pliars (needs to be about 2" opening)
    - Torque wrench

    Here's how it goes:

    Theres a small adjusting screw (12mm head) on the driver's half of the steering rack which keeps tension on the spring inside the cavity it screws into.

    Step 1: Spray the outside of threads with penetrant and let it sit for a minute. Then, take a wire brush and scratch off all the road grime and crap to help you crack open the adjusting screw.

    Step 2: Grab your break bar and make sure it's on the head of the 
    bolt square otherwise you'll probably strip the head off. Give it a good crank and hopefully you'll hear it crack.

    Step 3: After loosening the 12mm head you will probably see it comes with a large locking nut on the outside of the threads of the screw. Inside the cavity you will have the spring coated with grease come dropping on your head so be ready for that and dont' lose the washers.

    Step 4: Next, install the new spring with all the washers and maybe lube it up with some of the goop from the 
    original spring.

    Step 5: Loosen the locking nut on the tensioning screw threads all the way off. Put threadlocker on the tensioning screw threads. Install the tensioning screw over the spring and thread in. Torque until 40 ft.lbs.

    Step 6: Thread on the locking nut over the tensioning screw thread until finger tight.


    Step 7: Now torque the screw with the locking nut finger tight until locking nut is tight (30-50 ft lbs.) on the flange. Use your 
    torque wrench and set it to 50 ft. lbs.

    Step 8: This is where it gets fun..You have to back off the tensioning screw because right now if you were to drive the car, the steering wheel would not return to center. It just goes straight like a ride 'em lawn mower.Trust me, I know..

    So, you have to loosen the tensioning screw while using your pliars or (giant crescent wrench) to keep the adjusting nut from loosening with the screw.


    I found that I had to play with the tension a few times to get it right but I would recommend loosening the screw a half-turn and then going from there. More loosening will make the steering easier to return to center after turning 20*, less loosening will make thesteering wheel more solid, which is what we want to get rid of this wheel shimmy.

    It should feel like stock when you're done, except without the shimmy and maybe a tiny bit more steering effort, but not much.

    All of this work can be performed on ramps and you can even adjust the tensioning while just reaching under the car, if you're good.


    Good luck!


    Name: Aidan
    Location: bad-ass basso
    Car: 92 180sx (panda spec) Member of the sub 200hp club! 

    Bike: DR650 bush pig  
    Previous:92 Poosar, 97 Poosar, Honda Win, 92 Silvia , 94 GTR vspecII....
    "He's got the strength and flexibility of Gumby and Hercules combined!" "Gumbercules?! I love that guy!!"
    Pandering below;
    http://www.silviawa....showtopic=72615





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