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Car Make: nissan
Car Model: silvia
Car Year: No Information
Engine Modifications: No Information
Exterior Modifications: No Information
Interior Modifications: No Information
Suspension and Wheels Modifications: No Information
Planned Modifications: No Information
Link to pictures: No Information
Measured Power: No Information
400m time: No Information
Joined: 19-July 10
Profile Views: 2,022*
Local Time: Dec 13 2013, 07:21 PM
1,321 posts (1 per day)
* Profile views updated each hour
alright someone please explain this to me. problems solved but id like to know why its solved cause this has done my head in. this is on tinas 180
in the pic, the fork comes out of the master and has a bolt connecting it to the brake pedal. about a week ago i noticed this bolt was really loose while adjusting the brake pedal, so tightened it up real good. after i finished adjusting the brake pedal, the brakes would stick on and not release by themselves. i fiddled with the adjustment and put it back to where it started but the brakes were still sticking on.
decided the master shat itself and wasnt releasing pressure, so got a new master, changed it over today.
bled lines, press pedal, problems still there O_o
adjust the pedal, clutching straws. while im down there, decide to loosen the bolt off which holds the master to the pedal...just incase. well sure enough, brakes are fine now
someone please explain to me, how the tightness of that bolt can possibly affect the master not releasing
im really confused
the bolt im talking about is the one right next to the number "163" or whatever the frack it says
i had this motherfracker as my first car. came up for sale and i had to have it
this fracking car sheets on every other car on this forum and frack anyone who disagrees
now this badass is jam packed with cool sheet, cool sheet that you cant handle and you know it.
firstly, it sits sexy as frack. has cheap gab non adjustable coilovers and godspeed coilovers. now this sticks to the fracking road and you better believe it. it handles way better than it should for cheap suspension bits and flies around corners with sheer grip
look at that sexy as frack exhaust! quiet as a motherfracker too
now this engine is cleaner than as a nuns asshole. its got a badass alumium overflow and filter relo kit to make my life easy as frack
this interior sheets on yours and you know it. dont deny this you pleb s13 owners
LOOK AT THIS CARBON FIBRE sheet
JUST LOOK AT IT
ITS frackING EVERYWHERE
IF YOU DONT THINK THIS IS THE TIGHTEST sheet THEN GET THE frack OUT OF MY FACE
this sexy as frack leather roof is just a giant frack YOU to all cloth roofs out there
dynamat is laid through this whole bitch. makes the car quiet as frack to drive and just makes me a happy panda
CAN YOU DO THIS WITH YOUR MIRRORS? I DONT THINK SO BITCH
EVEN THE SPEAKERS ARE THE TIGHTEST sheet!?!?
at this point, it should be pretty clear which car is my favourite
in the good ol ca18de
had engine out, changed front/rear seals, water pumps, and a few other hoses and seals.
put engine back in, turn key, doesnt turn over. starter motor gives a loud click when i turn the key but nothing else.
just took the starter off and it works fine :S
any ideas what it could?
when i took the timing belt off, i didnt set it to TDC, so the exhaust cam gear jumper a bit. i marked everythings place though before i started, so when i got the belt back on everything lined up fine. think one of the lines might have been half a mill out tops.
could the timing be a factor? i put a breaker bar on the crank to see if i could turn it, it does turn but was very hard to, unusually hard
batterys fairly old, but i chucked jumpers on and still nothing. just decided ill put the 15s battery on tomorrow and see what happens
cars are stupid, its times like this i wish i had that stupid s13 regoed.
when changing turbo the plugs on the o2 sensor were all fracked and taped together, and when putting highmount back in, i wasnt sure which way to plug it in as the plugs were reversible and clips was all broken (red wire could be on the right, or left) so i plugged it in which i thought was right and carried on with my life.
yesterday my tank was near empty (50 litres used at only 320 klms instead of 380-400) so i thought maybe the o2 sensor was the wrong way around, using more fuel. when looking at the plug, one of the wires was pushed into the plug, so it wasnt making contact. i attempted to pull all the terminals out of the plug so i could connect them directly to the o2 sensor but one of the wires ripped out of the terminal. left it disconnected, went and filled up and drove home. the drive home was about 25 klms and was all fine.
just before, went to start it and it kept dyeing straight after starting it. i had to keep the throttle on so it didnt die, so my first thought was the o2 sensor not being connected so i got some terminals, did that and connected that up thinking it would fix it. made no difference, car kept stalling straight away. i held the throttle on for a bit so it wouldnt die, and after it started to warm up a bit it stopped dyeing. it would idle but it would struggle to so i was thinking TPS might be the problem. point is it wasnt dyeing so i drove off thinking it would be fine. when driving it was stuttering and surging constantly. only other time its stuttered like this was when the old coil pack harness was fracked.
im stumped. bad fuel maybe? got bp98
-car used alot of fuel
-i messed with 02 sensor but got it back to normal
-filled tank up
-next day, car struggles to idle and sputters/surges when driving
im sure every one of you has seen from my sig that i have owned a two tone s13 at one point.
now im sure this fabled two tone has been the hot topic amongst all of you for quite some time now.
"hey did you know kyle used to have a two tone s13?"
"so whats this two tone s13 im hearing so much about?"
fear not friends, as the two tone has returned, and you can put your minds at ease.
its a ca18de auto powerhouse. its done 260,000 klms and the owner was unsure if its ever been rebuilt. if it hasnt, then this engine is a fracking soldier because it runs perfectly fine and has no problems. revs to 8k with no problems and is actually faster than i remember my old manual CA being.
interior is clean as frack except for a few spots. typical cracked dash under the mat. climate control is missing a button, passenger window is missing the switch and rear seat has a tear in it. apart from that its exceptional. steering wheel almost looks new.
the body is extremely straight. i cant find any signs of crash damage ANYWHERE and the rails dont even have a single dent in them. i genuinely believe this cars never been in crash. paint however, is fracked. cars covered in scratches, dents, and rust spots which you can see when you get up close.
this has been a country car for a long time. the whole underside is caked in orange dust and looks like its never been cleaned.
plans for this, is to get rego first which should be easy. when i can afford it, ill look at getting the dents and rust out, and a whole respray so it looks brand new. itll also get the stock spoiler back and a CA lip if i can find one.
after that, its just gonna be a daily for a while. might do something cool later down the track but undecided. for now i just want a daily. possible future engines include; LS1, rb20, or maybe even CA18det manual with goodies. iv always been a CA lover
and what the body looks like up close
and got it for $600
this is what i want it to look like. i want it on the same level as this and kims s13
19 Nov 2013 - 6:22
8 Nov 2013 - 6:52
31 Oct 2013 - 7:18
28 Oct 2013 - 16:08
25 Oct 2013 - 21:07
2nd December 2013 - 08:59 PM