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About iverson_S13

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    Matter of fact, I didn't even give you my coat.

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    S13 Silvia
  1. Hi guys Been having some battles with the cooling system. Had an intermittent overheating problem - would only happen occasionally on the freeway after sitting at 100km/hr for an extended period. A little time later a heater hose split and drained most of the coolant. Fixed the line. Drained the rest of the coolant. Topped back up and bled the system. Car seemed to be slow to heat up and I had no hot air from the heater. Decided I'd flush the heater core and change the thermostat. Drained coolant again. Put the hose through the heater core, was pretty clean already. Changed thermosta
  2. Cheers guys. All closed though unfortunately. Looks like I'm driving the bunky this weekend.
  3. Guys, My torque wrench was lying to me and I've made a mess of one of the lower strut nut and bolt. I.e. the one between coilover and hub. Where can I source a new one today? This is for an S13 by the way. Mods: Apologies if you think this belongs in the WTB forum.
  4. Thanks for your help guys. I'm looking at it on the ground but haven't been able to take it for a spin as it's now unlicensed. Perhaps I have put the stock camber arms on the wrong side. They looked identical off the car. Any way to tell without trial and error?
  5. In preparation for the pits, I swapped the coilovers, rear camber and rear toe arms back to stock items. The problem is, I now have too much positive camber in the rear. I've tried adjusting the eccentric bolts but there's not enough range of adjustment to correct the problem. My question: Is there something I may have done incorrectly during installation that would cause this? For example, are camber arms side specific meaning I could have put them on the wrong sides? Or is it just a case of booking it in for an alignment?
  6. I have heard of a number of people that have failed with no inner guard liners. Buying new ones is probably possible, but costly. Best bet is to keep an eye out for someone parting out their car. Get in quick though; it's a popular item for this very reason. I might run my luck without strut dust boots though. New ones would cost more than the suspension itself.
  7. Has anyone had problems passing with stock strut boots that are torn to shreds?
  8. This thread hasn't received any love for a while, so who are the go to wreckers for s1x gear these days?
  9. Heading over to Melb for ARMIN ONLY in June... Can't f'ing wait after seeing vids of the first show of the world tour...
  10. Great work on the project thus far, Brendan. Is your mind set on the all Alpine system? As great as their top end gear is, some lesser known brands for the front stage such as Dynaudio, Rainbow and Morel would sound fantastic in that deadened environment. But it's all subjective after all.
  11. Demerit points, where applicable, are recorded when one of the following occurs: the infringement notice is paid; the Fines Enforcement Registrar registers the traffic infringement notice; the matter has been heard by a court and a finding of guilty has been declared and penalty pronounced. Demerit points are allocated from the offence date and remain on your driver's licence for three years. In the case of demerit point suspension (ie. exceeding the alloted 12 points): The licence disqualification period will take effect when the excess demerit point suspension notice has been
  12. I mounted one up in the dash to the far side of the glove box and the other under the steering column. Don't forget to wrap them up and heatshrink the connections if you do this to avoid any shorting. Other ideas may be to mount them in the boot or under the front seats.
  13. My only advice would be to dynamat your doors because the s13 doors were definately not designed to be a speaker enclosure. Use some closed cell foam between speaker and spacer, and spacer and the door to get a nice seal. In regards to tweeter positioning: Pointing towards the windscreen can increase stage depth and width. However, I found it blurred the image and also created the least flat frequency response. Perhaps this could be overcome with a bit of EQ, but I ended up installing mine on the sails facing the opposite head rest. It's still not perfect; I've sacrificed stage
  14. My preference would be to buy good 6-6.5" splits up front, a 2channel amp and sound deadening for the front doors. However, I'm pedantic about sound quality, so perhaps the 4-channel amp with front and rear speakers would be the better option if you just want noise. Either way, try to audition as many speakers as possible, including lesser known brands such as Focal, Boston, Diamond, DLS, Dynaudio, Hertz, Morel, Polk, PG, a/d/s, MB Quart, Rainbow, DD, Peerless etc. A few of these may be out of your price range, but some of the entry level Hertz and Focal gear for example will blow away
  15. 6x9s are crap for so many reasons. Why run another pair of full range speakers for bass when they would cost the same as a sub (in this case)? They skew the soundstage to the rear, destroy imaging, interfere tonally with your front splits, they don't have the frequency extension of a sub, they can't compete in output level etc etc etc. They are a bandaid solution for those who don't want a sub, which does not apply in this situation.
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