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Jim

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About Jim

  • Rank
    Smoke those R-Comps!
  • Birthday 11/08/1973

Personal Information

  • Name
    Jim
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth
  • Cars
    S15
  1. I was buying expensive Japanese name brand stuff back then. The HKS GT-RS turbo at the time was under $3k new and the HKS manifold was $1600 alone... I think the price was around $3.5k just for those two parts alone. Z32 AFM was ~ $400 Cams were ~ $700 Exhaust was ~ $2k (dump, front, and cat-back) Nismo fuel pump was ~ $400 Nismo 740cc injectors were $240 each Aidan, I'm not sure; I can't remember what sort of figures stock cams will net you, or if you'll need to put in stage-1 type cams to reach 300. And have you upgraded the intercooler and fuel pump? You'll probably be looking for a new
  2. Yeah, times sure have changed. These forums are so quiet now! It's been roughly 10 years since I was competing at MC and going on the occassional cruise with SilviaWA. I still have my S15 though, and I've just sorted out a replacement differential to change my drive ratios since I run a HPI 6 speed box these days (stay away from PAR Engineering everyone!). The HPI has much longer 1st and 2nd gears over the factory gearbox, which is fine for track but I find 2nd to be annoying on the road. I'm always bogged down after going around a corner, so the new diff will fix that. Apart from that, the
  3. I was curious about the Z33 box into an S15, but it seems you can't really make them fit without serious abuse to the S15... Here's a 3 part series from Alpha Omega Racing where they tried to make one fit. They gave up on making a Z33 conversion kit by the looks of things: http://alphaomegaracing.com/i/15/Z33-Z34-6-Speed-Gearbox-Conversion-Part-1-Adaption.html http://alphaomegaracing.com/i/16/Z33-Z34-Gearbox-Conversion-Part-2.html http://alphaomegaracing.com/i/18/Z33-Z34-6-Speed-Gearbox-Conversion-Part-3-Finale.html
  4. If you want to make it a plumb-back BOV, you can buy a kit for the HKS SSQ that replaces the little Mercedes badge shaped bit at the end with a hose fitting. Then you can run a hose from that back to here the stock BOV plumbed back into your intake side. That's what I did with mine. I bought my plumb back kit from X-Speed many years ago, but they may still stock them.
  5. I'm happy with my set up so I'll base my answer on that. Don't lower the car too much. Mine's dropped 35mm from stock and so still has plenty of suspension travel. Run about negative 1 to 2 degrees camber all round if you can. You can do more at the expense of grip when braking and you'll get more tyre wear, but of course you'll corner better. I wouldn't go more than -3 though. I made my rear toe neutral (0 degrees). The S15's understeer a bit from factory, so moving the toe from negative to neutral helps the arse end to come around easier, but it will make the rear end more twitchy,
  6. Jim

    BOV

    Also they cause over fuelling. The ECU provides the fuel based on how much air has been through the system. It measures the air that has already passed the AFM and fuels accordingly, but then the air gets blasted out. Then on the accelerator again, you get another rush of air past the AFM to fill the vacuum left behind and so more fuel gets added. Hence the backfires, black smoke, stalling etc that is related to vent to atmosphere BOVs. So in the end I think it's mainly pollution emissions, but also noise pollution since old people don't like them
  7. Oh well since I clashed on Mon I'll head on down tonight.
  8. Hmm, now I have a clash... so I'll have to put my runs off until another time.
  9. Actually I may as well go Monday too. It was dead last time I went then and I want to get that clutch nice and hot as it was only slipping once it got really warm. I need to make sure it's fixed
  10. See the 1/4 mile thread. I don't need an excuse
  11. I might go down to the drags tomorrow... I need to see if my clutch starts slipping once it gets hot. So more for trouble shooting rather than trying to set a good time.
  12. Out of interest how come they limited the boost to 1 bar? Is that just the practical limit of the stock T28 turbo before it moves out of its efficiency zone? With the mods you mentioned I would have thought they could go to 1.2 bar or near as damn it. Do you have a dyno chart showing the air/fuel ratios as well?
  13. Jim

    Why do you do it?

    It's a love hate relationship. I got my car to the point now though where I'm constantly worried about killing yet another gearbox. In some ways I should have just aimed for a reasonable power figure based on what the standard turbo can provide. The amount of money I've poured into it can't properly be justified if you think about it rationally, and I'll probably never sell it because of the huge loss that would occur. But of course like all of you guys, I've had plenty of fun in the thing, and I still love it that if I put my foot down not too many other things can keep up with it.
  14. Just another thought. Is it only when you are accelerating hard? My S15 had that problem at the drags and it was due to the amount of twist in the whole engine and gearbox on the mounts. I put on a torque dampener which is a shock absorber that goes between the motor and one of the suspension towers, that takes a bit of the twist out. It sorted out my problem for me. Another alternative would be to put in stiffer engine and gearbox mounts too. I did both in the end. There used to be a pinned topic for Torque Dampeners once. Have a search.
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