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the_galvatr0ns

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Everything posted by the_galvatr0ns

  1. hello fellow non-existent members, just fyi as silvia owners, many of us may be eligible for the new Concessions for Classics scheme introduced by the Department of Transport earlier this month. If eligible you could have your rego cut by 70% per year (~$500 discount). You need a 30+year vehicle and be a member of a DOT approved car club: ABC article - https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-01-05/classic-cars-expected-to-return-to-wa-roads/13032294 DOT media statement - https://www.mediastatements.wa.gov.au/Pages/McGowan/2020/01/McGowan-Government-flags-classic-car-and-street-rod-rego-discount
  2. I went from CA to SR also, missed the high revving nature and sound, didnt miss the oil leaks, noisy lifters and the propensity to blow gaskets. would I go back to CA? probably not
  3. have been putting it off myself, was thinking of taking the angle grinder out and cutting the rust out myself then get a panel beater to finish the job so I know that they didnt cut corners (pardon the pun). Do you think it came back because it was a bandaid fix? how much did it cost?
  4. ill give it a go, cheers was also going to check the pump with a multimeter, just have a sneaking suspicion it could be a sticky solenoid due to the heat, hence the fuel pump not priming
  5. lol rage. i actually did think that phrase was ambiguous but then I thought the second paragraph would clear everything up. which it didnt obviously anyway, its not firing but the starter motor cranks over, my initial thoughts are from no fuel
  6. did a quick search for start up related issues but didnt find anything relevant. recently been having startup problems. only happens on very hot days and usually after the car has been running for a while beforehand. the car just does not seem to want to start up again, no spluttering or signs of firing. I have noticed that after the ignition is turned on (but not started) the sound of the fuel pump priming is not audible. if I keep turning the ignition on and off (5-10mins of stuffing around) until I do hear the fuel pump sound, it starts. just wondering if anyone else experienced somet
  7. I have the top hose lying around somewhere. dont think it will fit the stock ca turbo inlet tho
  8. while on the subject of blatent grabs for cash aka speed cameras, the bike cops seem to be at it again this morning performing speed checks on northbound traffic on the mitchell fwy just outside the tunnel
  9. who quoted 3-3.5k drive in drive out? Hyperdrive, top racing and C-red were not able to quote me a stock spec ca rebuild for less than 4k (what I had at the time) ca had a spun bearing.
  10. Its stock parts. I guess your paying for piece of mind with the 4yr warranty. thats more than they came out with new. Their process can be found here http://www.engineexchange.com.au/process/ where did you get a quote for 3k for an sr conversion?
  11. I got a quote from 'The Engine Exchange' in Bayswater: from the website their rebuild process seems to be quite comprehensive and thorough and the warrenty is pretty damn good but probably be void after mods. the quote was the same price as an sr conversion. I went a second hand blacktop sr and to be honest I probably should have gone the rebuild for longevity and the sr isn't really that much faster than my old ca
  12. the train crossing at welshpool rd/sevenoaks st intersection seems to have speed sensors on them as well. haven't been game enough to find out if it is a speed/red light camera tho
  13. I was in the same boat as you.. ca died and in went the sr. I found that kyp and jpc were the best value and very similarly priced. i got a quote from kyp for a blacktop sr from a 180sx, manual, fitted for $5K, also got a quote from japanese performance centre for a blacktop s14, t28, manual, fitted for the same price. I went kyp cos it was closer but in hindsight I should have gone jpc for the extra grunt
  14. if I have s14 rotors and s14 hubs and the calipers for the s13 and s14 are the same, effectively I have s14 brakes, its semantics which car the caliper came from if they are the same. dont get ur knickers in a knot
  15. I have s14 rotors/hubs only and am using the same calipers. I kno the calipers are the same.. see my first post. learn to read between the lines
  16. some people prefer greater front bias (stable), others rear bias If you want equal brake bias then get one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ADJUSTABLE-BRAKE-BI...=item1e566b21b8 It is my understanding that bigger brakes increase prolonged heavy breaking, ie; track days. Any brake can lock up a tyre, ie: drum brakes can lock up a car tyre, but it cant do it on every corner for 5 laps at barbagallo. I have skyline front brakes and s14 rear brakes on my s13 and the setup provides excellent heavy braking longevity for the price, this is all I wanted the original poster who posed the que
  17. okay valentino rossi, thanks for the riding advice. supposing that you have ridden a motorcycle before, or have had to do the emergency braking in the riding exam, you would know that the rear brake provides stability when braking but the majority of the stopping is done by the front brakes. The rear brake is also useful when a corner tightens widway and your employing the counter-steering technique that most riders use. forgive me if I dont understand your logic. Aren't bikes and cars subject to the same physical forces when braking? ie: forward weight shifting under heavy braking incre
  18. why upgrade the rear brakes? its the front ones that stop you. hardly ever use the rear brake on my r6
  19. save urself some time and money and get s14 rear hubs and rotors. you dont need new calipers or hand brake cables just use the existing ones
  20. happened to me once, the rubber stopper got dry and brittle and just crumbled off. a pencil eraser shaped with a stanley knife/cable tie did the job until I got a genuine one.
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