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S13 Automatic Folding Mirrors.


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AUTOMATIC FOLDING MIRRORS TO IGNITION FOR S13.

 

This is a guide for exactly how i installed my auto folding mirrors, im sure it can be done differently but this is the process i took and the materials/tools i used.

(i was able to find a single wire that was running directly from the battery with the inline fuse already hooked up, so i tapped off from this, i am assuming that i didnt have this so the article will include how to wire directly from the battery). i have given each wire colours for the sake of the article.

 

The final product:

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NOTE: you will not be able to attach BOTH the automatic relay with the manual switch, its either one OR the other. Before you begin, use the manual switch to make sure your mirrors are folded in. Im sure their is some crazy circuit which would allow both to be used.

 

If you want to avoid 95% of whats written below, i can sell you a premade relay with the wires, pm for details. Would be hell of alot easier to install.

 

Materials:

# Single DPDT relay

# ~6m 'hook up' general electrical wire (1m black, 2m white, 3m red)

# Heat shrink tube

# Solder

# 3x Ring terminal connectors

# 15A blade fuse

# Inline blade fuse holder

 

Tools:

# Fuse tester (light tester)

# Soldering iron

# Wire cutters

# Wire stripper

# Screw Driver (for interior removal)

# Spanner (for battery ring terminal connection)

 

Step One: Centre and Drivers Interior Removal.

 

Remove the whole centre console, including stereo surround, and all the interior plastics above the the drivers footwell (steering column cover etc..)

 

Step Two: Wiring of constant 12V feed.

 

Disconnect battery. Attach ring connector to the end of the red wire and connect to the positive terminal of the battery, run the wire with the loom back into the cabin through the firewall, up into behind the deck and then down where your manual mirror switch is.

Within any portion of the red wire appearing within the cabin, connect the inline fuse holder in series by chopping the wire and simply joining the fuse holder either end, before you solder cut enough heat shrink to cover the entire join, feed the heat shrink over the wire and solder the join, then pull the heat shrink over the join and heat/shrink it!

Once there is sufficient wire to reach, cut the excess as it will be required to split the constant 12V source into two points; cut two lengths and attach them to the end of the ignition wire ( 'Y' split).

 

Now two constant 12V feeds are hooked up ready to be attached to the relay.

 

Step Three: Wiring of 12V Ignition feed.

 

Lower the steering column so the back of the key barrel is clearly visible, you should see various wires soldered. Using the fuse tester find which soldered wire receives power when you turn the key to the ignition, solder the end of the white wire to this point.

 

Run the white wire down the steering column, through to behind the deck and upto where your manual mirror switch is (up with red wire).

 

12V ignition feed is now hooked up ready to be attached to the relay.

 

Step Four: Wiring of Ground wires.

 

Attach ring terminal connectors to the end of two black wires, ground each wire in a different spot to a bolt through the chassis (good grounding point near manual mirror switch), for one of the grounding points i used one of the bolts used to secure the main gear boot. run the black wires back up with the red and white wires.

Split the end of one of the ground wires by attaching 2 more wires (Y split).

 

First Ground with two inputs and the single Second Ground are now hooked up and ready to be attached to the relay.

 

Step Five: Wiring of mirror input/output.

 

The plug that goes into your manual mirror control switch will consist of a green wire and blue wire at either ends of the plug, as visible by the cut wires within the image below. The GREEN wire is for MIRRORS OUT and the BLUE wire is for MIRRORS IN.

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd327/roleystoner/mirrors1.jpg

 

Cut the two wires a few cm from the plug (just incase you decide to hook it back up in the future), strip back the lose wire (not the few cm of wire from the plug) and with any left over wire (sure you gotta have some) attach to the ends to extend the wire out more from the manual switch (extent atleast say 15cm - so you can easily get to the wires).

 

One MIRRORS OUT and one MIRROR IN connections are now hooked up ready to be attached to the relay.

 

Step Six: Relay Connection.

 

A total of 8 wires should now be present; (no particular order)

1) Constant 12V (red)

2) Constant 12V (red)

3) First Ground (black)

4) First Ground (black)

5) Ignition 12V (white)

6) Second Ground (black)

7) MIRRORS OUT (green)

8) MIRRORS IN (blue)

 

The DPDT relay will also have 8 connections, :o, omfg, what a coincidence!

 

cut ~1-2cm of heat shrink and feed it up each wire. The terminals that the wires are required to be connected to are very small, to connect the wires i wrapped solder around the tip of the wire and then melted the solder next to each terminal. Once the wires are correctly joined (vertically), pull the heat shrink down to cover the solder and heat.

 

Six connections on the relay should be numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Two unnumbered. Refer to diagram:

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd327/roleystoner/mirrors2.jpg

 

Written terminal schematic, for each terminal connect:

Terminal (1): First Ground

Terminal (2): Constant 12V

Terminal (3): Constant 12V

Terminal (4): First Ground

Terminal (5): MIRRORS OUT

Terminal (6): MIRRORS IN

 

For the remaining two terminals; to one terminal connect the Second Ground (black) wire, and to the other connect the 12V ignition feed (blue). all 8 terminals are now connected.

 

Final product should look something like this:

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd327/roleystoner/mirrors3.jpg

 

Once your confident that everything you have done is correct, reconnect the battery and insert the 15A fuse within the 12V constant red wire, now turn the keys to ignition, the mirrors should now fold out!

 

Enjoy.

 

This article worked for me. i take no responsibility for any shizz occured during the following of this thread.

Edited by josh_roleystoner
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interesting way of doing it.... no offense but that seems like a fairly poor way of doing it because you loose controls. though it is rather simple which is a bonus.

 

i'll dig up the circuit i made before that allows you to have manual control, but if you leave the switch in the centre position it's on auto. it does require a bit of a mod to the switch and a bit more than just a relay, so if you don't have the tech skills, the method you just had will work.

 

if there is enough demand for it i could make up a batch of the little control boards (my prototype one is about 1" square) with just the half dozen wires needed hanging out which would make it a piece of cake to install.

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Cheers for the write up josh

 

interesting way of doing it.... no offense but that seems like a fairly poor way of doing it because you loose controls. though it is rather simple which is a bonus.

 

i'll dig up the circuit i made before that allows you to have manual control, but if you leave the switch in the centre position it's on auto. it does require a bit of a mod to the switch and a bit more than just a relay, so if you don't have the tech skills, the method you just had will work.

 

if there is enough demand for it i could make up a batch of the little control boards (my prototype one is about 1" square) with just the half dozen wires needed hanging out which would make it a piece of cake to install.

 

also interested in this ^^

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Tell me... what do the two wires do?

 

Mirrors out and Mirrors in, when the switch is used. Do they just 'switch' polarity or are they a simple trigger?

 

I'd test the one outside but the battery is out at the moment.

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Tell me... what do the two wires do?

 

Mirrors out and Mirrors in, when the switch is used. Do they just 'switch' polarity or are they a simple trigger?

 

I'd test the one outside but the battery is out at the moment.

 

Between out/in all they are doing is changing polarity, ie, for mirrors to fold out the 'mirrors out' wire is +ve, and 'mirrors in' wire is -ve and opposite for them to fold in. constant 12V source is feed into the manual controller where it alternates between the mirrors out/in wires.

 

Initially i thought each mirror was individually grounded, so the relay set up i was working with failed (didnt account for alternating ground), then found out infact current returns back to the manual controller through the opposite wire to be grounded, annoying!

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Tell me... what do the two wires do?

 

Mirrors out and Mirrors in, when the switch is used. Do they just 'switch' polarity or are they a simple trigger?

 

I'd test the one outside but the battery is out at the moment.

 

Between out/in all they are doing is changing polarity, ie, for mirrors to fold out the 'mirrors out' wire is +ve, and 'mirrors in' wire is -ve and opposite for them to fold in. constant 12V source is feed into the manual controller where it alternates between the mirrors out/in wires.

 

Initially i thought each mirror was individually grounded, so the relay set up i was working with failed (didnt account for alternating ground), then found out infact current returns back to the manual controller through the opposite wire to be grounded, annoying!

 

So did you try using two change over relays?

 

I'll give it a go this weekend! Could even hook it up to an output from the immobiliser/alarm module like you use for auto-window lifters.

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Would be piece of piss to hook it upto yours immobiliser/alarm, just changing the ignition wire over - you would probably need to wire the relay up different to that when there is no constant 12V source from the alarm, the mirrors fold out, and when there is a feed from the alarm they fold in (assuming there is a constant 12V source from the alarm when it is on). You would do this by: swapping terminals 5 and 6 on the relay diagram from first post, as my design works on the basis that when there is a current from ignition they fold out (opposite to what you want).

 

Initially i was using an SPTD relay (single pole throw) but this does not take into consideration the grounding (found out by blowing many fuses how exactly it works lol).

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  • 2 weeks later...

the trick to avoid relays blowing up (as my first attempt did) is to use something called a H-Bridge controller chip... it's commonly used for controlling electric motors in 2 directions (ie, changing polarity which is what you need) and can be 'disabled' which is the key to keeping the manual aspect functioning. i went one step further and got a dual H-Bridge chip hence one bridge per mirror.

 

how a H-Bridge works: (remember the mirror is basically the motor and (V) is the battery)

http://vidmes.com/c/H_bridge_operating.jpg

taken from the wiki article if you want to read up.

 

as for the keeping manual control, you do need to hack the actual switch it's self and add another wire... basically you need to have it such that when the rocker switch is in the centre position the extra wire you added goes high ( +12V) and use that to enable your auto circuit (very easy with H-Bridge).

 

 

(edited to embed the pic)

Edited by Crispy
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here we go.... this is more or less the circuit i'm using in my car atm.

 

http://vidmes.com/c/automirrors/auto%20mirrors.jpg

the 40106 chip is a schmitt trigger inverter, it's needed to invert the signals (so you get 2 opposite ones) and the schmitt aspect makes sure it goes from high to low quickly, as when you turn off your car and the volts degrade some weird stuff can happen to the circuit.

IGN+ is your ignition signal.

+12V comes from your battery through a fuse and some caps to filter (needs to be constant 12V so that mirrors can still retract after car is off).

in my car the EN (enable) goes to the extra wire from my switch that i hacked in, if you just wire it to +12 it will always be enabled.

 

if done correctly it can easily be built onto a small circuit board and hidden away below the switch in the centre console like so:

(note i have put components on both sides of the board)

http://vidmes.com/c/automirrors/DSC00298-sml.jpg

 

total cost of components is somewhere between $15-$20 so it's not that expensive to build.

i'm now looking into optimising this circuit further, with a status LED for errors and incorporating manual controls without the need to crack open your current switch.

 

sorry to hi-jack thread, but at least it's directly related :P

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Thats epic dude. nice work.

 

youve split the mirror out and in wires then?? one set to the controller, other set to the circuit?

 

 

ok, firstly you must remember that i have hacked my switch a little bit...

but where the ignition wire used to go into the switch now goes to the input for my circuit (labelled IGN+ at the top centre of the diagram above).

+12V from the battery goes into the switch where it used to have ignition power (which means i can extend my mirrors manual while the car was off)

 

the output from my circuit is spliced into the original mirror wires (which are still connected to the switch). the reason i can get away with this is, while the switch is in centre (neutral) position those mirror wires get nothing from the switch, and the auto circuit is active. the moment you move the switch to another position, it puts power to the mirror wires AND disables the chip's outputs putting them to Hi-Z (high impedance, basically very very high resistance so power doesn't flow that way). if you didn't disable the chip you would most certainly blow something up.

 

 

i hope that answers your qu... don't hesitate to ask more Qu's.

i will be making up a new pair of these circuits to asses manufacturing a small bunch of the circuits.

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  • 3 years later...

Thread dig I know, but I used this circuit in my 300ZX as they use the exact same type of controls as Silvia's use and wanted to say thanks for the writeup. I took mine a step further and incorporated the factory switch as an override using small 3A relays to build a logic circuit.

 

Thread below for how I did it:

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315353

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Good work man! Glad too see someone found that useful a while ago and took it a step further.

 

Sadly my switch is still sitting useless after all this time haha. Might be about time now to revamp it and enable the switch override.

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